* Spot spray with broadleaf post-emergent to kill chickweed, dandelion, etc.
* You need not fertilize in October or November.
* Normally it is (marginally) possible to put down sod in October; new sod should not be allowed to dry out so water on a regular basis to keep the soil moist, but not wet for the first couple of weeks.
* Let Bermuda and Zoysia grow to about three inches before the first frost. This will help them harden up and provide protection during the winter. No need to cut until next spring. Centipede does best when always cut at 1½ inches.
* November is too late to plant new warm season grasses; wait until spring.
* Keep leaves off the grass. Leaf buildup can smother grasses, even the dormant ones.
* The first two weeks of October are the best times to plant Fescue seed. This is the time to over-seed established lawns. Sod can be put down now through March.
* For seeding a new lawn, use 5 to 8 pounds of seed per 1,000 square feet and put down one inch of compost before spreading seed.
* October and April are the best months to use a core aerator on Fescue lawns.
* To over-seed an existing Fescue lawn, you should core aerate or verticut.
* If the lawn is 50 percent or less healthy fescue, just touch the top of the soil with a verticutter.
* If the lawn is more than 50 percent healthy, use an aerator. You need 10 or more aerator holes per square foot. Aerate on moist soil to penetrate 2 to 3 inches.
* For overseeding an established lawn, use 3 to 5 pounds per 1,000 square feet.
* Drag the lawn with a carpet or section of chain link fence to crumble the aerator cores and cover the seed with soil.
* Cover bare spots with a thin layer of wheat straw.
* Apply ¼ to ½ inch of water each morning that watering restrictions allow. New seedlings and existing Fescue will not need more than ½ inch at a time. After 10 days, apply ½ inch every four days for two weeks, then ¾ inch every six days for two weeks. After this, one inch per week.
* Apply turf fertilizer in late November at the recommended rate. Turf fertilizers will have higher nitrogen to encourage more green growth and discourage the grass from putting out flowers and seeds.
Information about Extension Solutions for Homes and Gardens can be found on the University of Georgia Cooperative Extension website at www.caes.uga.edu/extension/cherokee or by contacting the Cherokee County Extension Office at 100 North St., Suite G21 in Canton at (770) 479-0418. The Georgia Extension Master Gardener Program is a volunteer training program offered through county offices of the University of Georgia Cooperative Extension.